I have always been curious about Chiang Rai. This trip to Chiang Mai is a fabulous opportunity to have a glance at its sleepy sibling.
Chiang Rai’s population grew since the 7th century. In 1262, it became the first capital of the Lanna Kingdom. However, the capital was soon relocated to Chiang Mai in 1296. Since then, Chiang Rai lived in the shadow of its neighbouring province.
Chiang Rai with Kids
The journey from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai is an arduous 3-hour drive, meaning 6 hours to and fro. My hubby, the sole driver, would undoubtedly be tuckered out. He wouldn’t be able to enjoy anything from the trip and hence our decision to spend some money and sign up a day trip with Klook to ensure comfort and pleasure for everyone in the family.
Klook’s itinerary includes the White Temple, the Baandaam Museum, the Blue Temple and the Karen Long Neck Tribe. It was eye-opening for many of us, even the kids.
Sharing our experiences below.
Our Coach Ride
A coach ride totalling more than 6 hours (to and fro) with 2 tots and 2 tweens can be very challenging. They started the morning ride happy and energetic. We kept them busy with games, lots of fruits and songs.
As the day went by, our energy level got depleted. Patience wore thin. We survived with naps, more snacks and mobile games.
The White Temple
Wat Rong Khun, or otherwise known as the White Temple is a modern temple constructed in 1998. Designed by Thai National Artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, the White Temple is the key to the tourists flooding into Chiang Rai. I can only describe the temple as majestic, unique and filled with intricate details.
The temple is a Buddhist version of Antoni Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, almost equally bizarre and ambitious. We were only allowed to enter the main chapel from the front, via a narrow bridge that was surrounded by an eerie pool of outstretched hands representing suffering souls in hell. There was no turning back. It was not permitted because the bridge that was protected by powerful guardians would lead us to heaven.
It was honestly quite stressful entering the temple via the narrow bridge. It was crowded in the late morning. There were buses and buses of tourists, including us. Everyone was jostling for space to take their most Instagram-worthy photos on the bridge. The impatience ones behind us expressed their displeasure when our little ones walked at their own pace.
You probably need to arrive early in the morning to achieve a stunning photo shot like the one below.
As for the interior of the main temple, I have no recollection. We were not allowed to take photos inside the temple, and I was too busy trying to keep the toddlers close to me. I missed the murals on the main door with Ninja Turtles, Michael Jackson and Superman painted on it. Some tourists found the artworks entirely mismatched but still stunning, while others commented that the pop-culture painting was utterly hilarious.
There will be a total of 9 buildings when the ambitious complex finishes. Looking at the elaborated details of the main temple, and the golden toilet which is probably one of the most impressive toilets in the world, it is not surprising that the estimated completion date is around the year 2100.
If you are keen, check out this post by big boy travel that provides more explanation on the White Temple.
Baan Dam – The Black House
The Black House is created by Thailand’s National Artist Thawan Duchanee. It is a total contrast of the White Temple. If the White Temple represents heaven, the Black House probably represent death.
Dr Thawan Duchanee was already a reputable international artist in the 1970s. However, when he returned from the Netherlands to Thailand, his progressive interpretation of Buddhism was not accepted by the Thai masses, resulting in vandalism on his artworks.
Fortunately, he gained acceptance quite quickly and his works, which were inspired by traditional Lanna art, his belief in regionalism and spiritualism, Tibetan Buddhism and Burmese art, brought the local identity to the forefront. Read more about him here.
He began the construction of Baan Dam in 1976 and used the place as his studio and home. Since his death, Baan Dam serves as a museum to commemorate his life and art.
His artwork in Baan Dam included lots of buffalo horns, animal bones, tiger and snakeskin and stunning woodwork carving. Though eerie, it is really unique and worth visiting.
My kids reacted well to the art display. Though some of the art pieces look spooky, the well-designed Black House is airy and well-lit. The houses stand far apart from each other. There is even a mini playground with unusual seesaw design.
Long Neck Karen Village
I wasn’t sure if we should visit the Karen Village at all, but we went anyway. The Karen Tribe refugees fled from Myanmar due to political unrest previously and settled down in Chiang Rai. My eldest daughter visited the village with me, and she felt uncomfortable watching the ladies with long necks
The village is small and quiet. The pavement from the entrance led us into the orderly marketplace where the tribal ladies ran their craft business. We saw how they skillfully weaved scarfs and bags. Behind their stalls are where their wooden houses stand. We saw the men resting on their porches, after a day’s work on the farm, according to our guide.
Some people discourage tourists from visiting them, for fear that the Karen people will remain exploited if tourist money continues to flow in. Are they benefitting 100% from the THB300 (per pax) entrance fee that we had paid? The same people fear that the Karen women will not be able to escape their current way of life, that is to enslave themselves in heavy golden rings around their necks, for the sake of receiving a stable income from the tourists.
However, I understand from the tour guide that many young Karen tribe girls are no longer wearing any golden ring. They are attending school, just like anyone. If our tourist money can help them attain better education, give them the visa they need to live in Thailand and enjoy a stable life, it is not a bad thing, isn’t it?
Anyway, who are we to judge? Unless we sit down to chat with them and understand their thoughts. Wearing the iron rings is a tradition to them. It is their choice, and all we can do is to treat them with respect, support their livelihood by buying some handicrafts from them.
We have taken photos with the Karen tribe ladies, but I decided not to share it here.
The Blue Temple
Wat Rong Suea Ten, otherwise known as the Blue Temple, is only completed in 2016.
The magnificent temple is predominately blue as the colour is associated with wisdom, the infinite, purity and healing. The golden embellishment all around the temple certainly adds more charm to the building.
The Blue Temple was unsurprisingly crowded. People everywhere, we could not take any decent photo with no one blocking our view. So, I could only take a picture of the main entrance facing the sky!
The interior of the temple was equally stunning. The Blue Temple is a traditional temple meant for meditation and cultivation, which is the intention of building the temple anyway.
As recommended by our tour guide, we searched for the Butterfly Pea ice cream stall located next to the temple. The beautifully presented ice-cream was delicious — what a treat for the kids who endured the entire journey with us.
My Verdict
It was an eye-opening trip worth going. Our tour guide was knowledgeable and helpful.
Travelling with 2 tweens and 2 toddlers can be stressful. Travelling with a tour group with young kids made our lives easier, though it cost more than driving there on our own.
All we had to do on the coach to Chiang Rai with kids was to keep them entertained on the bus. Consider the 6-hour to-and-fro journey, travelling by coach gave them some space to move about as compared to cramping all of us in the car. However, that also meant lesser privacy for us. Imagine trying to calm down a whining child while the rest of the group is resting. Or discreetly changing a diaper and pulling off a smelly poop.
Travelling with a tour guide would also mean that we have lesser time to roam about leisurely. With 2 tots moving slowly, we missed a couple of interesting spots, just so to catch up with the rest of the group and ensure that we would not cause any delay to the already tight schedule.
If we had more time, staying in Chiang Rai for a night or two would be an excellent arrangement. We would then be able to enjoy the temple tours at a leisurely pace, visit when there is less crowd and go cafe-hopping for the rest of the day.
If you are keen to visit Chiang Rai via a group tour, click here* to Klook’s website for tour details.
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Chiang Mai with Kids – 7D6N – November 2019
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4 Chiang Mai Restaurants Worth Going
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