Paying respect, worship rituals, and remembrance of our ancestors are hallmarks of the Qingming festival. This year’s festival was particularly unique to me. It is my first trip to Penang to pay respect to my deceased and beloved grandparents. Besides visiting the monastery where their ashes are kept, we also visited the clan association where they had their nameplates.
For spending my whole life in cityscape Singapore, understanding of the rituals and “standard operating procedures” are an eye-opener. The explanation from the revered monastery nun further enhances my appreciation of the various significances of the rituals. From how fruits should be placed, the type of food we should avoid, the sequence in offering incense, etc.
Most importantly of all, I saw the inscribed plaques and photos of my grandparents, and emotions uncontrollably fill my inner soul. Be it the sentimentality in me or not, the feeling of reminiscence naturally fills you up intrinsically and instinctively, whether you are ready or not. That’s the beauty of Qingming. It makes us appreciate and reminisce our ancestors, the memories of time spent with each other and instinctively notifies us to appreciate our present and our families.
I had travelled to Penang with my parents and without my wife and kids. As much as I would like my kids to be able to share what I had experienced, the logistics and school’s schedule disallowed us to do it.
This festival also brings together my uncles, aunties and cousins, and we take the opportunity to dine together and reminisce of our past. Always a joy to do that.
Interestingly, every time I travel to Penang, I would try to self-drive to soak in the sights and atmosphere, as the old town charm never fails to surprise me. And of course, whoever visits Penang can never forget about her food.
Glorious Penang Food.
The moment we landed in Penang, our first destination for food is… salted fish and dried anchovies! My mum’s favourite.
Located no far from the famed ferry terminal and across Hean Boo Thean is a small and unassuming shop, which sells quality salted fish and anchovies. Locals love to go there.
From that point onwards, I decided that we should go off the beaten track this time and visit and/or eat at places where locals will go.
Klook.comHong Kee Wan Thun Mee
The first actual cooked food we ate is Hong Kee Wan Thun Mee located at New Lane.
This shop is housed in an area where I visit very often. However, this is the first time I try it. Their noodles are very Q, and the wontons are handmade and delicious.
The secret behind the recipe is this man.
Cendol
After lunch, we roamed around and strangely, we drove unknowingly towards the Chendol stall. Yes, I said that I would introduce food off the beaten path… but can you deny that this is still the unbeaten and most delicious Chendol stall in the world!
I don’t think I even need to tell anyone where this stall is located.
Regardless of whether Penangites or Singaporeans are travelling to Penang, we are always immersed in its food culture. Food prices have risen, but I think it is still reasonable considering the food quality.
Curry Noodles and many other street foods that you may or may not heard of
Next up.
Yummy curry noodles with duck blood and squid, lots of bean sprouts and most importantly the chilli. This stall is tucked away along Jalan Burma.
And look at this interesting excerpts of the menu…
Curry Kosong?
I had lots of sweet memories of walking the morning street market with my grandmother when I was a little boy.
Nestled within the grid type narrow streets are trolley stalls, coffee shops and shophouses selling various kinds of daily necessities to authentic street fairs. The ladies shopping on their motorbikes in front of each booth are still present today. And needless to say, the street food is delightful as always and are filled with old-style kuehs, sumptuous soybean curd with brown sugar, tropical fruits, and more…
Although I can feel the bust is relatively weaker than in the past, we can enjoy a good old style “Ban Cheng Kueh”. This pancake is cooked using charcoal fire and filled with egg, sweet corn and peanuts. As delicious as ever…
The market streets bring back lots of childhood memories. Located between Lebuh Kimberley and Lebuh Campbell, many roadside stalls has since shifted into the newly built market building. However, many others still line the streets. The moment I step into the streets, the friendliness of locals fills up the air and brings a sense of warmth and nostalgia.
Many local food stalls have been around for at least a decade, such as the famous Duck Kway Teow, the soybean curd and drinks.
And I bet many have not tried the curry chee cheong fun..
My dad’s favourite drink this trip has to be the Ba Poh Peng 八宝冰. Tried at several coffee shops with differing sweetness.
The local youtiao is also different from the long one we used to eat. This is a cross between youtiao and the butterfly one…as there is a slight sweetness to it and is curled up.
Of course, we don’t miss out the traditional kueh and buns…
Another great place for good and cheap but quality penang food is a coffee shop we visited near to my dad’s old friend. It’s called Genting Coffeeshop. A very popular one especially during lunchtime located at Jalan Delima.
Sumptuous curry mee with pig blood at only 4 dollars. Its Hokkien mee is also a favourite and it comes with pig intestine. Special amongst the traditional ones we usually see.
There is also slightly exotic food such as the Thai Kway Chap which I am trying for the first time.
If you prefer to opt for something light, then try the Kway Tiao Soup. Solid broth with fried garlic as condiments makes the soup base delicious.
Besides the street food and markets of good old Penang, new bustling and trendier locations have also sprung up in Penang.
Cubo Park
The Cubo Park is one of the new concept marketplaces I chanced upon. Located in Tanjung Bunggah en route towards Batu Ferringhi and nestled between the Island Plaza and Starbucks drive-thru outlet.
Young entrepreneurs have set up shop to ply their trade since December last year. The Cubo Park is made up of stacked up 20-foot containers and very well landscaped. An interesting array of trendy food stalls selling fusion, international, funky food concepts. Also located in the Cubo Park are small stores selling unique kids wear, ladies accessories, funky tees, handmade decor and accessories etc.
I recalled that this area used to be quite deserted but has seen come alive.
Other Options
Many Penang food stalls have also sprung up around the Mt Erskine area. Another great hangout place if you prefer a less crowded alternative to the famous Gurney Drive.
Tanjung Tokong
For those whom adore the beach and wish to soak in the heat of Penang, but don’t wish to drive all the way to Batu Ferrighi, and prefers a quiet place to sip coffee or drink beer (under the shade) with your family nearer to Tanjung Tokong, you can try this new place we accidentally discover while trying to locate an old temple near to the old swimming club, where my dad used to visit when he was young.
Bora Bora
Bora Bora is actually a guest house but has a good bar overseeing the sea. It is a nice quiet peaceful area so far. Good for an enjoyable afternoon at the beach.
Penang Snacks
One can never forget to bring home some local delicacies from Penang for our friends and families.
The famous brands of Ghee Heong and the widely various Ban Heong outlets would be the typical shops most visitors go to.
However, nestled along Lebuh Noordin is a local confectionery that sells equally delicious biscuits – Hock Lok Siew Biscuit.
Locals buy here! A wide array of goodies from homemade Tambun biscuits, sometimes called Pearl biscuit ( original ones and also with Pandan taste!), Beh Teh Saw, Heong Piah (brown sugar biscuit), Tai Yang Bing ( Sun Biscuit), Sak Kei Ma (sticky cookie) and many others.
The shop also sells other snacks such as dried squid, sugar-coated squid, and other Penang favourites. An unassuming stall but filled with lots of surprises, including payment options such as Grabpay and electronic payment. Technology has also invaded Penang.
I believe that I will never get tired of visiting Penang and the nostalgia would always accompany during these occasion visits. Interestingly, Penang has developed over the years, and changes continue to take place whenever I return for a visit. I can sense positive changes for the good of Penang and hope the traditional and nostalgic old town charm does not disintegrate when competing with development growth.
Look forward to my next one soon.
